For my five-pounder, I ventured to the best source I could find, Allen’s Scottish Butchers on Weston Road in Toronto. (It’s Mr. Higgins’s favourite.) If you think haggis is mostly talked about but seldom eaten, consider this: In January alone, Allen’s will prepare and package three tonnes of the stuff, roughly 200 to 400 organ sacks a day, each weighing from 1 1/2 to 10 pounds. When I walked in on proprietor Stephen Allen, he was hacking away at a baseball pitcher’s mound of bright-pink lung. If there is a hell for vegetarians, this is it.
Taking his cue from the modern-day haggis practice in Scotland, Mr. Allen adds a considerable amount of lean ground beef. “I tell people there’s not enough sheep in Ontario for me to make haggis for one year,” he said. For his casing he uses beef cap (the large intestine) instead of sheep’s stomach because it extends to a wider variety of sizes. Two of his secret ingredients are fatty tissue from lamb shank and a subtle dusting of nutmeg.
“A spicy meatloaf is the best way you can describe it,” he told me. And it has a slight undercurrent of liver flavour. The texture, unlike meatloaf, is loose, so it’s meant to be scooped rather than sliced.
Robbie Burns is my distant cousin - prouder of this connection than any other in my family.
Haggis really tastes quite nice as the writer says here - more like a very tasty meatloaf.
I only went to my first Burns night supper a few years ago in Toronto. I cried my eyes out. I think that the songs and the verse and the whiskey had combined to reach into my Scots soul.
Burns was an all out artist. All out in every way. In his work, his love - millions are related to him as he had so many girlfriends and bastards many of which were looked after by his wife - and in his full on approach to life itself.
A great ancestor